Las Ventas - La Plaza de Torros

"Bullfighting is the only art in which the artist is in danger of death and in which the degree of brilliance in the performance is left to the fighter's honor." -Ernest Hemingway

I think this afternoon has been the perfect example of a juxtaposition of emotions. I went to Las Ventas, which is the "Plaza of the Bulls" where they hold the bullfights in Madrid. The outside of the building is absolutely beautiful. The architecture is completely different from that of the rest of Madrid. We went to see the bullfight because it is a very big cultural event in Spain. Considering the fact that there were little children in the stands, I figured it wouldn't be so bad, I was completely wrong. It was probably the most inhumane thing I have ever witnessed with my own eyes. I guess its good that after this I planned on going to church because after feeling so much pain for the animals it was nice to have a bit of serenity.

So this is a bit of what happens at a bullfight. The history traces itself to bull worship and sacrifice. The oldest representation of what appears to be a bullfight was found in Spain. It is a cave painting called "El Toro de Hachos." Some say it was introduced by Emperor Claudius during a short span on gladiator type human vs. human games. Either way, it is a piece of Spanish history that even many spaniards, including the Queen, dislike. Others, consider it to be a ritual between the man and the bull judged by the fans based upon artistic impressions and command.

It begins with all of those involved in the fight, those on horseback, the toreros (the actual fighters), the medics, ect. (Because occasionally, one of the toreros is injured or killed during the fight.) The first of six bulls then comes out, with a tassel sticking out of its back, and is taunted by the toreros with bright pink and gold capote (the cape). The torero along with three members of his cuadrilla (team) called bandarillos taunt the bull for some time. This is the first round. Like the first, the second is begun with a trumpet sound and two more members of the cuadrilla, the picadores or lancers come out on horseback. They stab the bull in the back with the lance to weaken it. The worst part about this is that they hold it there for a solid amount if time, with the lance in its back, and you watch the bull struggle and fight and attempt to hit the horse standing next to it. After this, the bandarillos each taunt the torro (bull) with red and white decorations that they stick into the bulls back as it runs past them. By the end of round two, the white has turned red, because the bull is bleeding rather profusely from its upper shoulders. Finally, in the third stage, begun with a trumpet sound, mozo de espada (sword holder) and the final member of the cuadrilla, gives a sword and a red capote to the torero. He performs a number of flourishes as the bull runs past him, passing very close to his body each time. He taunts the bull and makes jesters, provoking cheers from the audience.

The bullring has a chapel in it with a priest, where the torero can pray before the match and where last rites can be given if needed. The third stage of the fight is the most dangerous, and is the reason why there are surgeons in Spain who specialize in treating cornadas or horn wounds. The object of this stage is to kill the bull in one thrust of the sword, two is barely considered acceptable. The matador will be booed if he does not perform the classical technique that puts him in extreme danger as he passes less than inches from the bulls horns and thrusts his sword into the bulls back, between the clavicles and through the aorta.

All in all, I was able to sit through two bull killings, not all six. It is difficult to see, though I don't regret going. It was nice to go for a long walk afterwards, run into a parade featuring different dances from all of the spanish speaking countries of south america (odd, I thought) and finally made it to mass.